Walking the River Lea (3rd day)

It was about five years ago that I first became interested in the River Lea and hoped to walk along it someday. I learned that the River Lea is the second‑largest river around London after the Thames, and that its headwaters rise in a park in a small village. In Japan, most rivers begin in the mountains, so this felt unusual to me. At the time, I read a blog called London Geezer about the River Lea with great interest.

When I decided to visit London in January, I initially imagined a long walk or a 100‑kilometre cycling trip from Leagrave to the 2012 Olympic Park. But I soon realised that such a plan was unrealistic for a short‑term visitor. In the end, I shortened the route to walk from Ware to Tottenham Hale—although in reality, I gave up at Cheshunt.

 

Liverpool Street Station

the platform

 

I decided to go to the River Lea after checking the weather forecast the day before. It was already around 8:30 when I arrived at Liverpool Street Station. I bought two sweet buns and a small bottle of juice at the Tesco in front of the station. Thanks to my daughter’s instructions the previous day, I managed to buy a train ticket to Ware from the ticket machine—£10.10, which felt expensive. I confirmed the platform number at the information desk. There were only a few passengers on the train bound for Hertford East.

The ride to Ware took about 50 minutes. There was no toilet at Ware Station, and no ticket collector either. Using Google Maps and GPS, I easily found the path along the River Lea. I was immediately impressed by the scenery—the River Lea Navigation, the narrowboats, and the peaceful atmosphere. I saw a narrowboat with a middle‑aged couple living aboard and asked, “May I take a picture? I came here from Japan to walk the River Lea.” The husband spoke to me kindly, but I couldn’t understand his English at all. I made a short detour to Amwell, which I had heard was one of the most beautiful villages around London.



Ware

a narrow boat


Hardmead Lock


Amwell


Amwell Nature Reserve


From St Margarets onward, I couldn’t find any public toilets. In fact, the only toilet along the entire route I walked was at the public car park at Dobbs Weir. The next one I used was in a shopping mall at Tottenham Hale. 

 

Stanstead Lock



Rye House Gatehouse



Fields Weir Lock


 From around Broxbourne to Cheshunt, many families and visitors were out hiking or cycling. The weather was unexpectedly hot, and I had already run out of water. My heel also hurt from walking too much every day. At 3 p.m., I gave up and decided to take the train from Cheshunt to Tottenham Hale. Still, I felt a sense of fulfillment—I had walked the core section of the Lee Valley Walk.

 

the Fish & Eels



Carthagena Lock

People living on a narrow boat

around Broxbourne



Cheshunt Lock



At Cheshunt Station, I bought a ticket to Tottenham Hale. The station staff asked whether I wanted a round‑trip or one‑way ticket. The one‑way fare was £6.50 for only about 13 km. She kindly told me the train would arrive in about five minutes on the opposite platform. She was beautiful. 

 

Cheshunt Station

South Kensington


 At Tottenham Hale, I emailed my daughter from a café inside ASDA. We met at 6 p.m. at South Kensington and had dinner together.


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